Alex Megos Sends 5.15c With First Ascent of ‘Perfecto Mundo’
The grade 5.15c has proved exceedingly elusive for climbers, with only two climbers sending the grade. Adam Ondra sent La Dura Dura, a 5.15c, in 2013 with Chris Sharma sending the same climb shortly thereafter. For five years, nobody else managed to climb at that level – until now.
On May 9, German climber Alex Megos, 24, attained the first ascent of the Perfecto Mundo, which both Sharma and Megos claim rates 5.15c. Sharma bolted the climb, located in Cataluna, Spain. But nobody – including Sharma himself – had climbed it cleanly without falls until Megos.
For context, 5.15c is the pinnacle of high-end sport climbing, the moves nearly impossible, the grips tiny. Only one climb, Adam Ondra’s Silence, first climbed in September 2017, is graded harder.
Perfecto Mundo involves a steep, overhanging roof that levels out to more vertical climbing with powerful moves. The most difficult section is near the top, after a series of fatiguing overhung moves. The climber must dynamically move from a mono pocket to a pinch and try desperately to hold on.
The German phenom has long been hailed for his climbing prowess, having made first ascents of 5.15b and multiple 5.15a climbs. He’s known for his ability to onsight climbs, sending routes graded 5.14d on his first try.
The large gap in people climbing at this grade reveals just how difficult it is to climb 5.15c. Fewer than five climbs exist graded that hard, and Ondra is the only climber to send multiple at that grade.
Stefano Ghisolfi, another climber projecting Perfecto Mundo, claims the first part is 5.14b to a rest.
“Then the main section starts,” he said, “about 10 intense moves with the crux that is a jump from a mono to a pinch, which is the hardest move.”
Congratulations go out to Megos on this career-defining accomplishment. It’s hard to say when the next climb at 5.15c will occur. These days, it could be weeks or years.
Article Source: https://gearjunkie.com/alex-megos-5-15c-perfecto-mundo-first-ascent